From Personal Belly Boats to High Performance Racers - An Overview of Inflatable Boats

Inflatable boats, also called rubber boats or dinghies, have been around in one form or another for thousands of years. They now come in many different sizes and models and include inflatable kayaks, sport boats, and inflatable catamarans. Their versatility and relatively low cost have contributed to their popularity, and more and more water enthusiasts are discovering the advantages of owing an inflatable boat.

Evolution of the Inflatable Boat

Historical records indicate that the first inflatable boats were animal skins filled with air. over the years, many cultures have created various versions of inflatable watercraft, and in 1839, the Duke of Wellington tested the first inflatable pontoons. In the decades that followed, many new designs were introduced and some of them were utilized by European military forces.

The inflatable boats were used to transport torpedoes and other cargo. They also allowed troops to make discreet landings in shallow water, and their compact size and storability made them easy to bring with, even on overland marches where it would not have been possible to bring a traditional boat.

one of the models, the Zodiac, grew to be very popular with the military and contributed significantly to the rise of the civilian inflatable boat industry, both in Europe and in the United States. After world War II, surplus inflatable boats were sold to the public and the general population had a chance to experience how easy and enjoyable these boats can be.

Since then, inflatable kayaks, sailing inflatables, inflatable canoes, sport boats, and belly boats have been added to the mix. Some inflatable boats run 45 feet in length or more and may include inboard steering, luxury features, and even full cabins. Inflatable boats have evolved so much that today, the only thing inflatable on some boats is the collar around the perimeter gunwales of the deck.

Hull Designs & Types of Inflatable Boats

Inflatable boats come in rigid hull design and soft-bottom style. Soft-bottom boats have floors made of fabric and slats (usually wood) running across the beam. This design is generally found in smaller inflatables ranging from about 6 to 8 feet in length only.

Rigid hulls, or RIBs, were introduced in 1967 by Tony Lee-Elliott and advanced by Admiral Hoare and the Atlantic College in Wales. As opposed to soft-bottom boats, which have a fabric hull with inflatable or wood keels, RIBs have hard fiberglass or aluminum hulls and large, inflatable tubes. This allows for a combination of the best features from both types of boats.

Some RIBs incorporate the V-shaped bow similar to that of a traditional boat. This design consists of a separate inflation tube running the length of the boat beneath the floorboards. Once inflated, it pushes the floor materials down to form the V-shape that helps in steering. The flotation collars on many RIBs are removable, making them easier to store and to clean.

RIBs typically range from 10 to 30 feet in length and are propelled by either by an outboard motor or an inboard motor turning a water jet or z-drive. They were first used as lifeboats in 1970, and later as dinghies or tenders on larger pleasure yachts. Many of todays sport boats used for fishing and water skiing are made with RIB designs.

Inflatable Sport Boats

Inflatable sport boats generally describe recreational boats that are used for fishing, water skiing, and other activities where a motor is required. Depending on the size of the craft, an inflatable sport boat can be used with a motor that generates up to 40 units of horsepower They can be deflated and packed away for easy transport or used with a trailer to avoid having to inflate at each use. Inflatable sport boats typically cost much less than their traditional counterparts and, because they are lighter, use much less gas.

high Performance

Several companies also make high performance inflatable boats that are used for racing, rescue, and other activities where speed is essential. These high performance boats generally have additional inflation tubes that lift the boat up off the water and create additional hydroplaning effects. They typically use larger motors, sometimes up to 400 horsepower. Because of their speed they are more difficult to navigate and require an experienced captain.

Inflatable Canoes, Kayaks, and Other personal Watercraft

On the flip side are the inflatable canoes and kayaks that rely on human power and are used by one or two people at a time. These watercraft often look similar to their traditional counterparts, but have inflatable bodies, making them much lighter and easier to transport. They are often less expensive as well.

In more recent years, inflatable sailboats and inflatable catamarans also have been introduced. They usually range from 12 to 14 feet in length and, like inflatable canoes and kayaks, only accommodate one or two people.

Belly boats are yet another category of inflatable personal watercraft. These floats are sometimes called pontoon boats, but are not to be confused with the large, flat-bottomed craft often seen carrying large numbers of people on area lakes. Belly boats were specifically designed to be used for fishing and often look like floating donuts with a seat. Some may have two small pontoons with a seating area suspended between. Most are less than eight feet long and have room for just one person.

Yacht Tenders

Falling in between inflatable kayaks and other personal watercraft and the larger sport and performance boats are the Yacht Tenders. These are typically inflatable boats that range in length from 6 feet to 20 feet and, as the name implies, they are often used as lifeboats and runabouts on larger vessels. Yacht tenders can also be used for fishing, general boating, river rafting, and other activities where a motor is not essential. Many tenders can be paired with a small electric motor if needed.

These categories of inflatable boats provide a general overview of the choices available. There are many variations and unique designs within these categories. In addition, some larger models of inflatable boats have inboard steering stations, cabin areas, and other features similar to traditional yachts.

As the inflatable boat industry continues to advance and grow in popularity, we are likely to see many new and innovative designs in the future, providing even more opportunities to find the inflatable boat that fits perfectly with your budget and boating needs.

about the Author:

C.J. Gustafson is a successful writer for Inflatable-Boats-N-kayaks.com, providing consumer information on inflatable boats and inflatable kayaks. She and her family make frequent fishing trips to Canadas backcountry. The numerous portages required to reach some of the smaller lakes have made her especially appreciative of the lightweight, compact design of the inflatable dinghy.

Copyright 2005 Inflatable-Boats-N-Kayaks.com

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Maintenance on Your Log Home

Like every other house exposed to the elements, Log Homes are neither maintenance free, nor are they absolute killers to take care of. I don't think it would be an exaggeration to state that the first couple of years demand significantly more work than your standard-issue house - unless, of course, you can afford to pay someone to do the work for you! Log preparation and the base coat of stain are critical to the long-term success of your wall protection. But once the initial work is done, the maintenance becomes routine, and I would venture to guess log homes are a little easier to care for than other wood houses. After all, you don't have to strip the stain off between coats.

LOG PREPARATION: Most construction sites become a sea of mud in a short period of time. The soil has been disturbed and there's no grass to hold the dirt together (or absorb the rain). You'll discover that the first few log courses are absolutely pristine, but the higher the walls become, the more the logs get dropped, smudged, or even used as stepping stones to dryer places (like the port-a-potty). Once the house is up, the logs will have to be washed before applying a stain... both inside and out.

Doing the interior cleaning in the right order didn't occur to us - especially since the logs were erected in the winter. In our case, the timing was all wrong; you really want to wash the interior walls before the finished floor is laid, and before the basement insulation is installed under the floor decking. We didn't make it, and we had to follow our wall-washing with a shop-vac to get rid of all the water... what a mess!

It was recommended that we use a mixture of one part bleach and four parts trisodium phosphate. We scrubbed it on with a brush and rinsed it off. Some people recommend a power washer for the outside walls, but you must use great care, and apply with a fan-tip to avoid damaging the logs. The experts recommend corn cob-blasting, but this is an expense most of us can't afford. If you do use a power-washer, it's a good idea to follow up with a shop-vac and vacuum out the water that will pool inside the checks, so that the logs don't get saturated from water sitting in the cracks. Even so, it will take one or more days to dry completely, depending on the weather.

Once the logs are dry, it is recommended that you apply a borate treatment before applying the stain. This borate is not only an insecticide, it also protects against rot. Usually this comes as a powder, and is mixed with water and sprayed on with an ordinary garden sprayer. Make sure it doesn't rain between applying the borate and the stain, or the borate will probably wash out.

STAINING: All stains are not created equal. There is a big performance difference between the best and the worst, so make sure you don't try to save money by cutting corners on the stain - you'll pay for it later. A deck sealer just won't work for logs; you should use a product specially designed for log homes, and you won't find it at your local hardware store. For a good brand, budget around $250 per 5-gal pail. Our 2400 sq. foot house took about 5 pails initially. Most stains need to be applied in two or three coats, so make sure your painter knows this when going for a quote. You will want to stain the exterior as soon as possible after the house is erected; it's amazing how quickly the logs will turn gray under normal exposure.

Afterwards, a "maintenance coat" of stain needs to be applied every 2-5 years, depending on the exposure. You usually don't have to restain the whole house at one time. You'll see the color lighten up as the stain wears thin - for lack of a better word. If you're not sure whether a new coat is required, run a hose on the wall and see if the water beads up. If it does not, you're probably ready for another coat. And no, you don't have to strip off the old stain first, unless it has been neglected and shows sign of flaking and chipping. If your walls have gone 10 years without a second coat, you may have to corn-blast and start over. In this case, consult a specialist.

RAILING SYSTEM: The weak link of every log home is the railing system - especially on an exposed deck. The junctures between the rails and spindles need to be caulked thoroughly, and you'll see many more checks in the little railings giving the opportunity to let rain in. The railing system needs to be restained every year. Make sure you don't let any water drip on the railings; gutters are a must.

CAULKING: It is a personal preference whether or not you caulk the exterior of your log home, but common sense would tell us that it's good policy to lock out the elements. There are caulks specifically designed for log homes that remain supple and give with normal expansion & contraction. The first couple of years, it is advised to caulk any checks that appear on the upper curve of the log surface, where rain might collect. These caulks will take a stain, so they tend to blend in. After the house has reached equilibrium with its environment, the checking will cease.

INSECTS: You can read more about insects in my article LOG HOMES vs. INSECTS: What to look for. For the most part, there is visual evidence of any insect problem. Make it a policy to inspect your home in the spring and in the fall, and be sure to keep your walls free of foliage, dead leaves, etc. Bushes should be planted a minimum of 2 feet away from the walls. Don't stack firewood against the wall, or anything else that could provide a home for unwelcome critters, four-legged or six-legged ones.

BOTTOM LINE: Maintenance on your log home should be routine, and the best defense is keeping a careful eye on abnormalities. Discoloration of a corner probably means water is dripping on it. A little pile of sawdust probably means a boring insect. Holes in the log, regardless of how tiny, are a red flag. These are the kinds of things you'd look for with any house. And after you've had your inspection, relax on the deck and enjoy your home... you deserve it.

Mercedes Hayes is a Hiawatha Log Home dealer and also a Realtor in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. She designed her own log home which was featured in the 2004 Floor Plan Guide of Log Home Living magazine. You can learn more about log homes by visiting http://www.MercedesHayes.com

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